E36 Kilometre Saati Ayarı Ve
Kalibrasyonu |
|
E36 KİLOMETRE SAATİ AYARI VE KALİBRASYONU When I first got my E36, I had to drive it home for 3 hours down the highway. The speed limit in Ontario is 90 km/h on the highway I was travelling. I typically travel around 115 km/h to avoid getting pulled over by the police. This is common practice in Ontario (they usually pull over at around 120) I noticed something peculiar was happening. The majority of traffic was still travelling faster than I was, despite my speedometer reading 115 km/h. I got passed by a camper trailer. Upon arriving home, I checked the speedometer accuracy via GPS. I've used the GPS in my line of work (Fish and Wildlife Enforcement) and was familiar with the speed readings given. I had a few shifts of work with the police, and we tested the GPS unit against the police radar for accuracy. The GPS came back in sync with the radar unit. At this stage, if the GPS was incorrect, I
could at least live with being in sync with the radar units (to avoid
speeding tickets). I tested my speedometer errors.
The key to
this problem was the highway speed. I do tons of distance travelling, so I
needed to have an accurate speedometer. Not only did I correct the problem, but the cluster manages to be correct at all speed ranges (something I'm not quite familiar with as to why, but nevertheless it's correct!). I was hoping for the 100-120 range to be accurate at best, so it was a nice surprise. Here's what I did. Keep in mind, if you attempt this, I can't accept any responsibility for you destroying anything. I think it's pretty safe to attempt though. You'll need a torx set with the common sizes for pulling the instrument cluster. If you do not have tilt steering, then I can't guarantee that you won't get the cluster out without having to remove the steering wheel. I'm sure you should be able to get it out though, I've watched it happen without tilt. CLUSTER IN DASH:
STEP 1: Remove Instrument Cluster. (2 torx bolts connecting to the top of the dash, use thin object to pry the cluster down a bit, grab hold and pull it out). Unclip the electronic connectors (place a finger from one hand on the release tab, use the other hand to slide the plastic hoop and get it started, slide hoop off of connector - this removes connectors). There are 3 connections. Once they are off, slide the cluster out.
STEP 2 DISASSEMBLE CLUSTER: Using torx bits, remove backing from instrument cluster. There are 5 screws holding this in. Once they are out, pry the two halves apart using moderate force. Pry on the left and right sides of the cluster, switching back and forth between the two to generate an even force. Once the backing is off, you need to separate the glass housing from the speedometer assembly. There are 3 *finger screws* (plastic tabs based over a pane of plastic glass) that need to be twisted into openings to allow the two parts to separate. You will need some minor dexterity (or if not, a small screwdriver) to twist these into position. Once this is complete, you are left with your speedometer assembly in the open.
STEP 3: CHANGE POSITION OF THE NEEDLE: This is where the challenge comes in. If you have a pretty good idea of how far off your speedometer is (usually 10% at 60mph/100 km/h on E36 models) then you should be okay to estimate from this point. Grab the speedometer needle and move it around a bit. You will notice that the needle is on a bushing that has some give to it. Using two fingers firmly around the needle (sounds gross, heh) lift up lightly on the needle and move it below the plastic stopper (below zero). The needle shouldn't fall very much further from here. Push on the needle so that the position of the needle changes from it's previous position. You are trying to remove 6mph/10km/h from it at this stage, so you are turning it backwards (down). Give an approximate guess (or you can look at the reverse side of the needle and where it sits, and use that) for your speed deficit. The needle will spin on it's shaft after some prodding. Don't be afraid to damage it, there is nothing securing it to the base. Once you think you have it, you will have to re-assemble your cluster to test it out. Put it all back together, take the car out on the highway and test it out. If you over did the reduction in needle position, disassemble, and instead of putting the needle on the other side of the plastic stopper, turn the needle all the way clockwise until you feel it stop. At this stage, the same rule applies - spin the needle on this shaft until it matches up to where you want it to be. Replace and test again.
To bring the speedometer to read higher:
STEP 4: FINE TUNE AS NECESSARY In my case, I am able to remove and disassemble the cluster in under 3 minutes. Once I test it on the highway and find it to be incorrect, I would pull over on the side of the road (on a side street), disassemble the cluster, adjust the needle, re-assemble and test again. I did this until I got it right:
All the tools you'll need: Basically, I did this awhile back, and the needle has not changed position since the fix, making it a permanant solution. On my cluster, I had moved it around enough that the needle started to lose some of it's rigidity against the post. Although this has occurred, it still hasn't changed position. And like I mentioned before, all speed ranges
seem to be correct now. |
