E36 ÖN KAPI KİLİT TAMİRİ VE BAKIMI

0. PREFACE

You'll need these tools.

• T20 torx bit
• 5mm hex bit
• Pick tools and/or cotter pin tool
• 10mm wrench or socket
• Dull butter knife or screwdriver
• Needle nose pliers
• Ruler
• Depth gauge and/or calipers (maybe)
• T30 bit (optional)
• Work light (recommended)
• Flash light (recommended)
• Battery charger (highly recommended)

This is a general diagram of where you'll be working. Blue is for door panel clips. Green is for rear window guide rail. Red is for window regulator clips.

1. REMOVE DOOR PANEL

There are a bunch of DIY about this, so I'll make this quickPop out and disconnect mirror controls.

1. Remove interior door handle trim.
2. Use screwdriver or dull butter knife to pop the door panel off the clips (located at the blue markings in the overview diagram.)
3. Disconnect speaker wiring.
4. Peel away vapor barrier.

2. DISCONNECT WIRING

Disconnecting the electrical wires can clear up some working space, so it's not a bad idea to get them out of the way. To get the lock wiring out of the way, disconnect the lock actuator and unclip the wire bundle from the door. You'll have to maneauver the connector a bit because it's a self-locking harness.

This would be a good time to disconnect the door handle wiring. It might give you a little more clearance for later to take off wiring clip now; turn it (counter-clockwice, I think) and pull it out.

3. MOVE WINDOW OUT OF WAY

The door window is the single greatest obstacle in preventing this job from being quick and easy. The Bentley manual says to remove the window outright, but you can save yourself a little trouble by just unclipping it and positioning it out of the way.
First, make reassembly easier on yourself by marking the locations of the 6 rear guide rail fasteners (green markings in the overview diagram.) There are two 10mm bolts facing the interior, two 5mm hex bolts under the door, and two 10mm nuts on the window dolly. After marking their original locations, remove the nuts and bolts and take the rear guide rail out of the door.
Remove the retaining clips holding the regulator to the window glass (red markings in the overview diagram). There are two of them in the rails at the bottom of the glass and they will be covered in grease. Use a pick or cotter pin tool to take the retaining clips out and pop the regulator arms out of the gliders. Since they are wear items anyway, you can throw the gliders and the clips out and use new ones for reinstallation. New gliders pictured below.

By this time, the window will basically be floating in the door, so you'll have to hold it. Fortunately, the weather stripping at the top of the door and on the front guide rail will help prevent it from free falling. You should be able to raise/tilt/maneuver the glass and have it rest at an angle with the rear as high up as possible. Lowering the window regulator arms will give you more room to work. Note that the window will likely fall out of the front rail, so keep that in mind for reinstallation.

4. REMOVE DOOR HANDLE AND PREPARE THE NEW HANDLE

Now, the crux of this DIY.
First, take off the door handle trim. It's been covered before, so just refer to this DIY

http://www.bmwteam.net/board/index.php?showtopic=10181

or whatever post you can dig up with the Search button. On coupe doors, there's a metal tab that will basically cover the sliding trim lock, so it might be easier to work from inside the door than through the access hole. You can kind of make it out in the next picture, but you'll see it when you get to this step.

Second, disconnect the door handle from the door lock. There are two things to take care of. Decouple the large metal arm on the door handle from the slotted lever in the lock. Then disconnect the hooking arm between the tumbler from the lock mechanism.

Third, undo the door handle attachments. On the inside of the door, unclip the back of the retaining piston and pull it out. On the outside, unscrew the locking ring and remove the plastic washer (don't lose it!). Some other write-ups have suggested using a horologist's tool for removing the back of watches, but that's not necessary. I used a pair of needle-nose pliers without trouble.

That's it! Now pull out the door handle.

Here's a picture of the carnage in my door. Notice that no less than three things had broken: (1) the door handle arm, (2) top half of the the door handle assembly, (3) the cable holder. I imagine that the assembly had been broken for a long time, and arm was the straw that broke the camel's back.

Transfer the cabling from the old assembly to the new one.

5. TRANSFER THE LOCK TUMBLER

My old assembly came from a 4/95 car. There must have been a design change at some point because the tumblers are different between the original handle and the replacement! So keeping the old key will require transfering the key wafers from the old tumbler to the new one.

Drive out the retaining pin on the old tumbler. Put the key into the tumbler and pull everything out. I used a nail and a vice to do the work.

Do the same for the new tumbler. I used a very small hex bit to drive out the retaining pin.

Here's how the key works: As you push the key in, small wafers in the tumbler slide up and down. If your key matches the wafer arrangement, they'll all go down and allow the tumbler to rotate in the bore. You'll need to transfer all the wafers to the new tumbler in order to continue using the old key.

At the moment, the keys are the only thing preventing the wafers from falling all over the place. So, take a breath. Take the keys out of the tumblers and lay out each set of wafers. Reinstall them into the other tumbler, making sure not to lose the tiny springs in the wafter slots along the way. Put the new tumbler with the old wafters into the new handle assembly. You'll know you're finished when you can insert, turn, and remove the key from the tumbler without anything binding.

Drive the retaining pin back into the tumbler.

6. OTHER MAINTENANCE/REPAIR

Since the door is already apart at this point, you might as well do the following:

• Replace the sliders at the ends of the window regulator arms. Most likely, if you're replacing broken door handles, the sliders are already toast.
• Remove the door lock and spray everything down with white lithium grease. You'll need the T30 bits to undo the bolts. If you're feeling extra enthusiastic, clean the bolts and refresh the Loctite blue.
• Spray the inside of the door stop/check. This will help the door swing open.
  If your key gets stuck in the tumbler when turning, check out the door lock. When you turn the key, the tumbler pulls an arm on the lock via a connecting rod. There's some plastic that's supposed to help guide things when all these things move (there's a lot of play in their movement), but that broke on my lock.

Notice the V-shaped expanse of space between the black plastic? There's supposed to be plastic there. Unfortunately, you can't seem to order individual parts for the lock, so you'll have to ghetto-rig something if you want to save the expense of a new lock.

7. REINSTALLATION

Reinstallation, as they say, is the reverse of installation. Make sure you line up the window hardware to the markings made before. If not, you'll need to follow the adjustment procedure in the Bentley manual; for that, you'll need a depth gauge or some calipers.